How to Maintain Your Bike

Bike maintenance has gotten complicated with all the conflicting advice flying around. I remember when I first started wrenching on my own ride — I watched about fifteen YouTube videos and somehow ended up more confused than when I started. But here’s the thing: keeping your bike in good shape really isn’t rocket science. It takes a bit of consistency, a few basic tools, and the willingness to get your hands a little greasy. Let me walk you through what actually matters, top to bottom.

Check Tire Pressure

This is one of those things people skip all the time, and then they wonder why their ride feels sluggish or they keep getting flats. Grab a decent gauge and check your pressure before rides — it takes thirty seconds. You’ll find the recommended PSI (pounds per square inch) printed right on the sidewall of your tires.

• Road bikes: 80-130 PSI
• Mountain bikes: 30-50 PSI
• Hybrid bikes: 50-70 PSI

Pump your tires up to the right PSI and while you’re at it, give them a quick once-over. Look for embedded glass, thorns, or sharp bits and pick them out carefully. A minute of prevention beats twenty minutes of roadside tube swapping.

Inspect the Brakes

Brakes are kind of a big deal. Like, the biggest deal on your bike, honestly. Start by eyeballing your brake pads — do they still have meat on them, or are they worn smooth? If they’re toast, swap them out. Then take a look at the brake cables. Any fraying or corrosion means it’s time for new cables.

• Squeeze the brake levers. They should press the pads firmly and evenly against the wheel rims without any weird grinding.
• If the brakes feel spongy or loose, use the barrel adjuster near the brake lever to tighten up the cable tension.

Spin the wheels and watch closely. The brake pads shouldn’t be kissing the rim when you’re not pulling the levers. If they are, something needs adjusting.

Lubricate the Chain

Probably should have led with this, because a dry chain is behind half the complaints I hear from fellow riders. Your chain needs regular lube to keep things running quietly and efficiently. Use a bike-specific lubricant — don’t raid the kitchen drawer for cooking spray or WD-40. Those attract dirt like a magnet.

• Wipe the chain down with a rag first to clear off old gunk and grime.
• Apply lubricant while pedaling backward so it works into every link evenly.
• Wipe off the excess. Seriously, too much lube is almost as bad as none at all.

A properly lubed chain makes your pedaling smoother, quieter, and keeps the chain from skipping when you least expect it.

Test the Gears

Gears are how you conquer hills without blowing out your knees. Take a look at your derailleurs and shifters, then click through every gear. Smooth transitions? Great. Hesitation, clunking, or the chain refusing to move? The cables probably need some love.

• Use the barrel adjuster on the derailleur to dial in the cable tension. Small turns make a big difference here.
• Check for any bent or banged-up parts. A bent derailleur hanger is a sneaky cause of bad shifting.

When your gears are dialed in, the whole bike just feels right. It’s one of those things you don’t appreciate until it’s working perfectly.

Check the Wheels

Your wheels should spin straight and true — no wobbling side to side. Lift the bike up and give each wheel a spin. If you spot any wavering, the wheel might need truing. That’s the kind of job you can learn to do yourself with a spoke wrench, but if you’re not comfortable with it, any local bike shop can knock it out quickly.

• Feel the spokes by squeezing pairs together. Any loose or broken ones need attention right away.
• Make sure the quick-release skewers or axle nuts are snugged down properly.

True wheels give you better stability, better braking, and honestly just a more enjoyable ride all around.

Clean the Bike

I’ll be honest — I don’t love cleaning my bike. But it makes such a noticeable difference that I force myself to do it regularly. Use some mild soapy water and a soft brush. Whatever you do, skip the pressure washer. High-pressure water blasts grit right into your bearings and pivots, which is the opposite of helpful.

• Focus on the frame, chain, sprockets, and derailleur — those are the grime magnets.
• Rinse everything off and dry it with a clean cloth so you don’t get water spots or rust starting.

A clean bike runs better. That’s not just something people say to sound wise — there’s genuinely less friction and wear when things aren’t caked in trail dust.

Inspect the Frame and Fork

This one’s easy to forget because the frame just sits there, right? But regularly give it a close look for cracks or damage. Tiny hairline cracks can grow into big problems if you ignore them. Pay extra attention to weld joints and areas around pivots where stress concentrates.

Grab a flashlight and check the spots that are hard to see. If anything looks off — even a little — get it checked out sooner rather than later. Frame failure while riding is nobody’s idea of a good time.

Check the Handlebars and Stem

Make sure your handlebars are pointing the same direction as your front wheel. Sounds obvious, but things shift over time. Tighten the stem bolts if there’s any play or wiggle. Check the handlebar itself for cracks — especially if it’s aluminum or carbon. And while you’re up there, make sure your grips or bar tape are secure and still comfortable. Worn grips get slippery when wet, and that’s a problem you don’t want to discover mid-ride.

Examine the Saddle

Give your saddle a once-over for wear and tear. Make sure it’s locked down tight and sitting at the right height for your riding style. A saddle that wiggles around messes with your balance and comfort. If your saddle’s seen better days or it’s just plain uncomfortable, don’t suffer through it — a replacement is usually pretty affordable.

Inspect the Pedals and Crankset

Pedals should be firmly threaded into the crank arms — no wobble, no clicking. Check the crank arms for signs of damage or looseness. Give the crankset a slow spin and listen. Any grinding, clicking, or crunching sounds usually mean the bearings are wearing out and need attention.

Verify Lights and Reflectors

If you ride at dawn, dusk, or after dark, your lights and reflectors aren’t optional — they’re keeping you alive out there. Check that everything’s working. Swap batteries or charge them up. Wipe down the lenses so they’re actually doing their job. That’s what makes a well-lit bike endearing to drivers — they can actually see you coming.

Being visible isn’t just about your own safety. It’s about giving everyone around you a fair chance to notice you.

Keep Bolts Tight

Every few rides, do a quick bolt check with a wrench. Hit the stem, handlebars, seat post, and crankset especially. Bolts loosen over time from road vibrations, and a loose bolt at the wrong moment can ruin your day in a hurry.

Monitor Suspension

Got a full-suspension or hardtail with front suspension? Check those forks and shock absorbers periodically. Look for oil leaks and make sure the travel feels smooth without any weird sticking points. Your manufacturer’s guide will tell you the recommended service intervals and which parts need lubrication and when.

Storing Your Bike

Store your bike somewhere dry and out of direct sunlight. UV rays are surprisingly hard on rubber and paint over time. If you have to keep it outside, throw a bike cover over it. And whatever you do, avoid damp areas — rust is the enemy of every bike component.

Stick with these maintenance habits and your bike will reward you with smooth, reliable rides for years. None of this takes long once you get the hang of it, and those small regular checks really do add up. Now get out there and ride.