Bike Maintenance for Pros

I dropped my chain on a group ride last month — right in the middle of a climb, naturally — and the guy behind me shouted “when’s the last time you checked your drivetrain?” Fair question. I’d been lazy about it, and my bike let me know. Point is, even people who ride constantly sometimes slack on maintenance. So whether you’re racing or just logging serious miles, here’s what actually matters when it comes to keeping your bike running right.

Cleaning Your Bike

Dirt and grime don’t just look bad — they grind away at your components like sandpaper. After a muddy ride or a few weeks of commuting, your bike deserves a bath. Use a soft brush or sponge with mild soap and warm water. And whatever you do, skip the high-pressure hose. I know it’s tempting, but forcing water into your bearings and seals creates problems way worse than the dirt you’re trying to wash off. Dry everything right after you’re done. Leaving moisture on the bike is just asking for rust.

Checking Tire Pressure

This takes thirty seconds and makes a bigger difference than most people realize. Use a real tire gauge, not the squeeze-and-guess method. Road bikes generally want 80-130 psi. Mountain bikes are more like 30-50 psi. The right pressure depends on your weight, tire width, and riding conditions, but start with whatever’s printed on the sidewall and adjust from there. Check before every ride — it’s one of those habits that pays off immediately.

Lubricating the Chain

A dry chain is a noisy chain, and it wears out faster too. Clean the chain first — there’s no point putting fresh lube on top of old grime. Then apply lubricant sparingly. A little goes a long way. Probably should have led with this, but the number one chain lube mistake is using too much. Excess oil attracts dirt like a magnet and turns your chain into a black, gritty mess. Wipe off the extra after application, and re-lube after wet rides.

Inspecting Brake Pads

Brake pads wear down gradually, so it’s easy to not notice until your stopping power is gone. Most pads have wear indicators — little lines or grooves that disappear as the pad gets thinner. Once those are gone, you need new pads. While you’re at it, check alignment. Pads that hit unevenly wear out faster on one side and don’t stop you as well. Takes about two minutes to inspect and could save you from a very bad day.

Tightening Bolts

Loose bolts are scarier than they sound. A stem bolt that backs out can send your handlebars loose mid-ride. A seatpost clamp that slips means your saddle drops right when you’re standing to climb. Go through the bike regularly with a torque wrench and check everything — stem, bars, seat post, crank bolts. Follow the manufacturer’s torque specs. Over-tightening carbon parts can crack them, so more isn’t always better.

Adjusting Derailleurs

When your gears skip, ghost-shift, or refuse to go where you want them, the derailleur usually needs attention. Start with the barrel adjuster on the shifter — small turns can make a big difference. If that doesn’t fix it, check the cable for stretching or fraying and look at the derailleur hanger for bending. Sometimes a bent hanger is the whole problem. If you’ve tried everything and it still won’t shift clean, a shop tune-up is money well spent. That’s what makes derailleur adjustment endearing to home mechanics — when you finally nail it, the shifting is so satisfying.

Caring for Wheels

Wheels take a beating. Potholes, curbs, rough trails — all of it can knock things out of alignment. Spin each wheel and watch for wobble. If the rim is wandering side to side, it needs truing. A spoke wrench lets you tighten or loosen spokes to straighten things out. Even spoke tension is what you’re after. Also check the rims themselves for cracks, especially if you ride on rough surfaces. A cracked rim is a wheel failure waiting to happen.

Replacing Cables

Cables stretch and wear over time, which means your braking and shifting gradually get worse. It’s a slow decline, so you might not notice until you put fresh cables on and realize how much better everything feels. Inspect cables for fraying and rust. If the housing is kinked or crushed, replace that too. Keep cable runs clean and lubricated for the smoothest operation.

Maintaining Suspension

If your bike has suspension, it needs regular love. Clean the stanchions after every ride — dirt that gets past the seals accelerates wear on the internals. Check for oil leaks around the seals. Follow your fork and shock manufacturer’s service intervals for full rebuilds. And dial in your air pressure and rebound settings for your weight and riding style. A properly set up suspension transforms how the bike handles.

Checking Headset

The headset takes a lot of stress, especially on rough terrain. To check it, grab the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. If you feel a clunk or knock, the headset is loose. Turn the handlebars side to side too — it should feel smooth without any notchiness. Tighten the top cap and stem bolts to take out play, or replace the bearings if they’re worn out.

Monitoring Bottom Bracket

The bottom bracket is where your cranks connect to the frame, and when it goes bad, you’ll know. Creaking noises when you pedal, play in the crank arms, or a grinding feeling are all signs it needs attention. Remove the cranks, pull out the bottom bracket, clean the threads, and re-grease. If the bearings feel rough or crunchy, it’s time for a replacement. Don’t ignore bottom bracket noises — they only get worse.

Servicing Pedals

Pedals should spin freely without any grinding or resistance. Take them off periodically, clean the threads, and apply grease before reinstalling. Check the bearings — if they feel rough, they need replacing or repacking. And make sure the pedals are tight on the cranks. Remember, the left pedal has a reverse thread, so it tightens counterclockwise. I still have to think about that every time.

Inspecting the Frame

Your frame is the foundation of the whole bike. Give it a careful look-over regularly, especially after crashes or hard impacts. Check around welds, the head tube, bottom bracket shell, and dropouts for cracks. Carbon frames need extra attention — cracks can be hard to spot visually. If you find anything suspicious, take it to a professional before riding it again. A compromised frame can fail catastrophically without warning.

Storing Your Bike

How you store your bike matters more than most people think. A dry, cool spot out of direct sunlight is ideal. Don’t leave your bike outside where rain and UV break down everything from rubber to paint. Use a cover if outdoor storage is your only option. Hanging the bike or using a stand keeps tires from developing flat spots. A little storage effort goes a long way toward keeping your bike in good shape between rides.

Useful Tools

• Torque wrench
• Chain cleaner
• Soft brushes
• Tire pressure gauge
• Barrel adjuster
• Cable cutters
• Bike stand

Good tools make every job easier and less frustrating. Buy quality where it counts — a decent torque wrench and a proper chain cleaner will pay for themselves fast. Keep your tools organized so you can grab what you need without digging through a junk drawer. Knowing how to use each tool confidently is half the battle.

Regular Inspection Schedule

Having a routine takes the guesswork out of maintenance. You don’t have to remember what you checked last — just follow the schedule and you’ll catch problems before they strand you on a ride. Here’s a timeline that works well:

• Weekly: Clean bike, check tire pressure, look at brake pads.
• Monthly: Lube the chain, check derailleur tuning, inspect cables.
• Quarterly: Go through all bolts, check the headset, service pedals.
• Yearly: Full tune-up — frame inspection, suspension service, the works.

Stick with this and your bike will reward you with smoother rides, fewer breakdowns, and components that last longer. The little stuff adds up more than you’d expect. Now get out there and ride.